"The world is big and I want to get a good look at it before it gets dark "- John Muir
June 2018, a long cherished dream comes true, I travel to the Lofoten and Vesterålen archipelago in the North of Norway. Traveling above the Arctic Circle at this time of year is a challenge. The 24 hours of daylight will give us the opportunity to make the most of it, and definitely makes sure we will lack some sleep.
We start our tour on the Vesterålen, where we drive to our first camp at Stave in the middle of the night. So strange to have clear views at midnight, and also very lucky as we see a few moose along the way. Unfortunately it will be very cloudy and wet for the next few days. Shame, however it does give the rocky landscapes an even more mythical atmosphere. We expect the Trolls to appear any minute.
In the next days we drive through this beautiful landscape, enjoying it a lot, in spite of the clouds. At some point we stop in Andenes. A lovely little town (northest I have ever been at 69° latitude) where whale safari's leave for a 97%-chance-of-spotting-whales-tour. Well, we were in the other 3% and got pretty sick along the way. At some point even wishing the tour would be over soon. Luckily the fish soup in the restaurant next to the harbour made our day!
We drive to Kabelvåg, where we will stay for few days. The sky is still grey, we cannot see much. Clouds are at 50-100m, covering the granite mountains which should be around somewhere. We still enjoy great coffees and cakes though. And the towns of Svolvær and Henningsvær. One is a city with shopping malls, the other a very rustic fishing village with the famous Stockfish hanging out to dry (and smell). We will be back at the end of the trip to see some sun a beautiful views on the mountains.
Slowly we head even more South to Hamnøya. This is the Lofoten we have seen on images. This is what we came for. The sun is showing it's face more and more, and we are able to enjoy some of the most beautiful hikes in the region. We walk from Ytresand to Mulstøa, from Haukland to Uttakleiv and the beautiful Munkebuhytta trail. Man, the Norwegians have some very scenic trails to hike. Some a bit more tough than others, mainly for the muddy parts after the rainy days we had. The views are magnificent though!
In the meantime we just take in the unique views on the Reinefjorden. This is the view of the Lofoten, and we got it served with a blue sky 😍. Making more pictures than we can use, it just is breathtaking. The whole area between Hamnøya and Reine is simply stunning. There are a few small fishing villages with Stockfish and fish heads, giving some colour to the landscape. Just remember, in Reine the gasoline station serves great fishburgers and the Bringen Kaffebar great coffee and cakes to go with the views.
Our last hike is from Nesland to Nusfjord. Another great trail along the sea, up and over many granite blocks and with many amazing views on the mountains and coast. We even spot Norway in the distance, as well as a grey seal hunting in one of the bays.
Almost at the end of our holiday we decide we really should experience the midsummernight. We have dinner in our accommodation and go out again close to midnight. We need a beach facing North, so we drive to Flakstad. When we arrive there, we find many people in their campervans, waiting for the not setting of the sun. This is surfers beach, and even now some people are still surfing the waves. We walk on the sand, wearing sun glasses and watching the sun go down. And just when it is supposed to disappear in the see... it rises again. Birds are still flying around, people walking and paddleboarding. It is 2:30 am when we leave to go to bed. Our sleep pattern is completely disrupted by now...
Det var en glede å møte deg. Til neste gang.